Mojácar
goes back a long long way. Earliest traces of a settlement
there are from the Bronze Age, around 2000 BC. The first
colonists were Phoenician traders. They were supplanted, first
by the Greeks and then by the Carthaginians, who arrived about
1100 BC. The geography of the whole area was significantly different
then. The surrounding land was lower, the Mojácar,
Garrucha, Vera plain was part of the Mediterranean and the main
port for the area was at the base of Old Mojácar. The
Carthaginians later developed it into an island fortress and
it became the main
western port for the silver and mineral mines in the area - and
between them, Old and New Mojácar where to change the
course of world history three times.
The
first was to kick start the Bronze Age, an essential way station
on man's long pilgrimage to the present post modern day (whatever
that means) – and
it could all easily have been down to lucky
geography. Situated almost exactly midway on the early trade
routes between the tin mines in Cornwall and the copper mines of
Cyprus, there is much provenance to the claim that the first actual
smelting of a bronze alloy took place in the Mojácar area. A
profusion of ancient cave drawings of Indalo man's is
thought by many historians of the period to represent bronze age
blacksmiths working the new alloy that was shortly so completely
The second epoch making event in
world history occurred during this Second Punic War between Rome
and Carthage. The Romans
under Scipio Africanus turned the Carthaginians (then commanded
by Hannibal’s impetuous but less effective brother, Hasdrubal)
out of their main fortress and regional capital, Cartagena, and
then, in a series of bloody engagements, forced them west of a
line running between the present day Mojácar and Vera. Much
more significantly, Carthage lost control of the rich silver mines
around Villaricos.
The loss of the mines had critical long term consequences for the
future of the Carthaginian Empire (and world history) as the loss
of these minerals eventually rendered Hannibal’s spectacularly
successful campaign in Italy ultimately untenable. His
successful transit of the Alps (with the famous elephants)
to take Rome in its very heartlands - and the spectacular series
of victories that followed in mainland Italy not withstanding,
he eventually ran out of money to pay his largely mercenary army – or
to acquire the heavy siege equipment needed to breach
the walls of the fortified Roman cities - and such was the
invulnerable confidence of the Romans that a piece of land
outside the city walls of Rome itself, made its asking price
in an auction - despite the Carthaginian army being encamped
But for a time Hannibal's impact on Rome seemed cataclysmic,
especially so after the battle of Cannae, with the simultaneous
destruction of two Roman armies, amounting to 86,000 dead,
a slaughter not equalled until the atom bomb at Hiroshima 2000
years later. But
they were ultimately to be paper victories. The Romans held
their nerve and with the loss of the income from the mines in Spain,
Hannibal's mercenary soldiers went unpaid. However you
view the working of history, had the Carthaginians held onto
the mines at Villaricos, world history could easily have been
very different.
The latest world shaking event happened seventeen hundred years
later and ten years after the reconquest of Spain by the Catholic
Kings, Ferdinand and Isabella. The Kingdom of Granada, which
included Mojácar, was the last to be freed in 1499. The
Moors, dispossessed and now back in North Africa, organised a secret
revolt amongst their own people in Mojácar and still
in the majority - planned to coincide with the landing of a
Moorish army from Oran in North Africa.
The plan depended on the gates of the city (Mojácar was
a city in these days) being opened to this invading Moorish army. It
wa planned that Mojácar would then become an important base
for the further reconquest of all of Spain. This uprising,
now known as the first Moorish Revolt. was to be directed against
and then centred on the upper Alpujarras. Mojácar
was strategically critical to its success. But Mojácar,
although still controlled by a Moorish Alcaldia (mayor) had sworn
loyalty to the Catholic Kings ten years before in a historic ceremony
at the village Fuente (fountain). True to his word, he
refused to join the insurrection and the attempt to recover
Spain for Allah failed.

Another facet of Mojácar at the time was that from the time
of the completion of the Christian Reconquest in 1492 until the
final expulsion of the Jews (a long process that began a year later
and roughly coincided with the later gradual exodus of the Moors)
Mojácar was famous for the harmony in which the three religions
coexisted and indeed intermingled and married. It was
even at the time spoken of as a model for the rest of Spain
- until politics at a higher level made this impossible...
Visitors to this part of Andalucia often wonder at the traces
of a huge and long departed population. Dense parallel
terraces crowd the south side of almost every mountain, some reaching
almost to the top. An awful lot of people , must have lived there
at one time. Where did they all go? The answer is truly a
warning from history. They became the victims of other peoples success
- and of their greed. With Columbus's discovery of the
New World (maybe the biggest event for Europe since Charlemagne
turned back the Saracens almost eight hundred years before)
there began a mad race to colonise the Americans.
Ships
were needed, more and more ships, and that meant trees. When all the surplus
lowland trees had been felled, the ship builders turned their attention
to the woods that capped every terraced mountain. But these trees
were much more significant than those further down. They
were there to catch the rainfall and then to regulate the slow
year round filtering down of the rain water to the terraces below.
Without these trees there would be no irrigation and no crops -
no food!
So
they were very careful. Only a few trees were cut down to begin
with - and it didn't seem to affect the irrigation cycles. So
more were removed and still all seemed okay. And so on they
continued, carefully, incrementally, cutting trees down, until
one day, quite suddenly, the irrigation channels began to dry up. They
stopped cutting the trees, of course, immediately - but it was
too late. A silent hidden tipping point had been passed and
the terraces continued to dry. And
as in all such disasters, a chain reaction then set in, compounding
and accelerating the deadly drying process - and each unforeseen
And for the people of eastern Andalucia, of course the geography
was against them as well. Western Andalucia and Seville still
had the monopoly of the huge and growing trade with the Indies
and North and South America. Castile, as always, had its rich
wool trade with the Low Countries - while Catalonia, looking eastwards
into the Mediterranean, was unaffected. But all this area of eastern
Andalucia had, was a hostile Moslem coast directly opposite - and
a sea rendered almost impassable by Barbary pirates…so
no help there - or from anywhere else for the next 500 years.
Could these chain of events be a warning from History - and
applicable to our times and to the whole planet this time...? Time
will tell!
And more recently a poignant note from the Civil War and its aftermath. Building work on the top floor revealed a secret room. Only a couple of metres square and tiled in a fashion that looked very thirties, it was likely a hiding place for some poor soul from the loosing republican side in the Civil War, relentlessly pursued by Franco, once famously described as, '...a murderous little Christian gentleman..' and his fascist followers down the decades afterwards. Another reminder of the Thirties, that, ‘...low dishonest decade...’ in Auden's words. |